Denise Labadie’s art quilts feature either Celtic megalithic stones and monoliths – think Stonehenge – or monastic ruins and passageways. They are known for their moodiness, emotion and surprisingly true-to-life realism. Each piece is created using appliqué and strip piecing and Denise’s unique hand-painted fabrics. Denise has won multiple awards at Quilt National (USA), and she’s had major exhibitions in the US and worldwide.
Join Denise as she shares her work inspired by her love of Ireland.
“I use a wide variety of colours, fabrics, threads, and yarns in my work, and then construct the actual quilt the same way as a stone mason builds a wall – individually sizing and cutting out, piecing, and appliquéing each stone, one by one, working from the bottom up – each stone a foundation for the others that it supports or neighbours. In contrast to the realism of the stones, my skies and landscapes – which are central to the context of place and the timelessness of these sacred sites – are far more abstract. I hand paint almost all my fabric (from which – as described above – I then individually cut out each stone).
The realistic colour and texture of my stones is achieved by using multiple layers of sun-reactive transparent Seta color paints, plus various resists, in combination with (while wet) the aggressive folding, twisting, wrapping, bunching or pleating of the fabric, and (while drying) the application of sand, different types of salt crystals, sugar, dirt, and the like – basically, doing or using most anything that can influence or cause differential paint absorption, diffusion, blending, patterning, or mottling. Resulting fabrics can be remarkable.
I then use selective combinations of multiple appliqué techniques (reverse, turned edge, and raw edge), insetting, free-form strip piecing, couching, and “thread shadowing” (similar to thread painting) – plus an occasional very localised dab of paint – to achieve my trademark quilt top textures, lighting, depth of field, and shadowing and perspective. Throughout, full attention is given to proper craftsmanship, “sweating the details”, and technique precision.“ – Denise Labadie.
Joe Cunningham has been a professional quilter for 44 years and has written a dozen books, many magazine articles, museum catalogue essays and papers on the subject of quilts. He has lectured at museums, universities and for quilt guilds and conferences internationally.
Join Joe as he shares his work inspired by his love of traditional quilts.
“After many years spent studying, copying and imitating 19th century quilts and quilt styles, I made the decision to create my own style. While these quilts seem to be foreign to the common ideas of the tradition, it was my studies of the tradition that showed me how to create freely and in my own abstract language”. His quilts can be found in major museums in the US and in many private collections.
Gawthorpe Textiles Collection (GTC) is an internationally renowned collection of global textiles located in the heart of Pennine Lancashire, England.
Last week, I was honoured to be invited to a private tour of its new home at Northlight, Suite 26 Unit 2, Northlight House, Pendle Rd, Brierfield, Nelson BB9 5FF – a 15 minute drive from Gawthorpe Hall.
This post shares a flavour of what the collection has to offer and how you can access the beautiful embroidery for yourself.
A visit to Gawthorpe Textile Collection
“Founded by the Honourable Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth (1886-1967) the collection was amassed to educate, inspire creativity, support wellbeing and to preserve traditional craft skills by sharing knowledge, skills and expertise across cultures.” Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.
Northlight
Up until recently, the collection had been stored within Gawthorpe Hall, in a damp storage area that was starting to impact the condition of some of the pieces. After funding was secured a decision was made to move the entire collection to a new home within Northlight.
Northlight is a perfect location to visit with plenty of parking and just a stones throw from Brierfield Railway station. Northlight, a redeveloped cotton mill full of stunning historical features of its own.
This new purpose built archive holds the collection of over 30,000 textile and craft items. Each item has been carefully wrapped in acid free tissue and then placed in a box, labelled and referenced with its contents.
I was completely blown away by the diversity of the Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.
Beryl Dean
Rachel Terry the Collections Officer gave me a guided tour of the boxes and explained some of the stories behind their contents.
Rachel Terry the Collections Officer gave me a guided tour of the Gawthorpe Textile Collection.
I took a particular interest in a box labelled ‘Beryl Dean‘ and Rachel offered to get the box down for me. I naturally accepted and was in awe at it’s contents which included some tiny handstitched English Paper Piecing and an amazing artwork created in gold work and silk embroidery.
An amazing artwork by Beryl Dean created in gold work and silk embroidery.
Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth
Other embroidery that interested me was work stitched by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth herself. Another box was chosen from the shelves and opened.
After carefully unrolling its contents – a long piece of beautifully hand stitched crewel work embroidery – Rachel explained the story behind the work.
A long piece of beautifully hand stitched crewel work embroidery by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth
Whilst we chatted, Rachel mentioned a selection of pieces that I might be interested in. Pieces that had connections to the Kay-Shuttleworths.
On the far side of a wall covered in framed art was a hand painted artwork with links to the early years of the Girl Guiding Movement. Other frames contained patchwork and hand embroidery including two hand embroidered world maps documenting the travels of a family member.
Artwork with a connection to the Kay-Shuttleworths
My eye was drawn to three mysterious parcels wrapped in white fabric to protect them from dust and light. Each had decorated the tower walls at Gawthorpe Hall. I asked about them and Rachel offered to unwrap one for me. Inside was a very special piece by Rachel Kay-Shutleworth.
The work was mounted on a wooden frame and had the most beautiful, vibrant, red poppies hand embroidered in wool, in techniques that allowed the flowers and seed heads to sit proud of the foundation fabric.
Embroidery by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth that once decorated the tower at Gawthorpe Hall
After seeing all this beautiful embroidery, my mind was buzzing and I needed a hot cup of tea and a sit down.
Before leaving the archive I had a chance to pop into a beautifully lit room adjoining the archive. The space is used for hosting talks and workshops, and also has a small shop where I had to purchase a new mug for my sewing room.
Viewing the Gawthorpe Textiles Collection – Talks and Tours
I can heartily recommend planning your own visit to the the collection. Enquiries for group tours and individual study visits are available via this link.
Another way to see the beautiful collection is at a new exhibition opening in summer 2024 at Gawthorpe Hall.
Gawthorpe Hall, Burnley Road, Padiham, BB12 8UA; (for Sat Nav use BB12 8SD).
Other ways to view the collection
The collection is gradually being digitally photographed and documented. A large selection is available to view here on Tumblr.
GTC has designed a number of Loan Boxes to support creative learning in schools and adult learning classes. The boxes are full of inspiring textiles covering Patchwork, Plain Work Samplers plus boxes dedicated to Contemporary Stitch and Lace. Please enquire about availability.
Thank you for joining me on this tour of the fabulous Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.
I hope you are inspired and plan to make a trip of your own in the future.
