Blood Sweat and Tears

Blood Sweat and Tears - Lois Marsden, Oswaldtwistle – Matron, Friends Ambulance Unit, Dunkirk, France.  Awarded: 1915 Star, R.R.C 2nd Class, Long Service French Riband with Silver Palm, Médaille Des Épidémies, A.R.R.C 5.6.18.

My latest hand embroidered artwork ‘Blood Sweat and Tears’, was created as a nod to the members of the Red Cross who dedicate their lives to the care and protection of others in times of need. 

This piece is a window into the lives of five women who did just that between 1914-1918 and came from an area local to Accrington in Lancashire. 

The central motif was inspired by Red Cross nurses’ aprons. I chose a red cotton cloth, very close in shade to the original, and hand appliquéd it centrally onto the background.

Size 30 x 30cm. Hand embroidered text with vintage Sylko threads onto cotton cloth.

Blood, Sweat and Tears was created as a companion piece for ‘Accrington Pals

Blood Sweat and Tears
Blood Sweat and Tears

Research for Blood, Sweat and Tears

My research of the British Red Cross archives took several months to complete. I discovered Voluntary Aid Detachment (VAD) records for both men and women, but it was the stories of women in wartime that really resonated with me. 

As men were called away to war, it fell upon the women to fill the gaps in the workforce – which indirectly was a catalyst for the emancipation for women.

Women from all walks of life volunteered.

The final stitch - Blood Sweat and Tears
The final stitch – Blood Sweat and Tears

Five women from Lancashire

Blood, Sweat and Tears focusses on five women who lived in the same area within Lancashire. The following includes additional research that creates a window into their wartime experiences.

Alice Ogden Adcock

Alice Ogden Adcock from Accrington. Image courtesy: Red Cross Archives.
Alice Ogden Adcock from Accrington. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.

Alice Ogden Adcock from Accrington worked as a Nurse from 1915-1918 at the Anglo-Russian Hospital within the Dimitri Palace, Petrograd, Russia (now renamed the Beloselsky-Belozersky Palace) nursing Russian soldiers at the hospital and field stations.

The hospital was established, under the patronage of HM Queen Alexandra, in August 1915 as a “British gift to our Russian allies” and was once visited by the Tsarina and her daughters.

Marion Ramsbottom

Marion Ramsbottom, Clitheroe. Image courtesy: Red Cross Archives.
Marion Ramsbottom, Clitheroe. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.

Marion Ramsbottom from Clitheroe worked as a Nurse at Ellerslie Auxilary Hospital in Blackburn, then at Worsley Hall in Manchester and Fargo Military Hospital in Salisbury. In 1916 she survived the sinking of hospital ship H.M.S. Britannic off the coast of Greece, then in 1917 continued her service at the 25th Stationary Hospital in Rouen, France.

Ellerslie Auxiliary Hospital opened on the 28th of October 1914 at Ellerslie on Bury Fold Lane, Darwen. It provided 28 beds on opening which was increased to 41 in August 1915, an annexe was opened to increase the capacity to 50 in April 1916. In July a second annexe opened at Staveleigh, bringing the total number of beds to 75. In June 1917 the hospital moved to the newly built Public Halls in Northgate, Blackburn allowing capacity to be increased to 120.

Worsley Hall, a Gothic-style mansion, was the home to the Earl of Ellesmere. At the outbreak of war, the 4th Earl and his wife lent the Hall to the British Red Cross Society as an Auxiliary Home Hospital for wounded soldiers. The hospital was fitted out to accommodate up to 132 patients, and 884 patients were treated there in the 1st year alone. The large lofty rooms of the Hall were converted into wards, sitting rooms and dining rooms, and the gardens and boating lake were used for recreation. The greenhouses and kitchen gardens provided patients with fruit and vegetables and at Christmas, the Hospital was decorated with evergreens and a fir tree.

A training camp for the artillery was established at Fargo on the Salisbury Plain in 1904, and grew to include medical units. In July 1914, just before the outbreak of the war, the Royal Army Medical Corps started work on the construction of the 1,200 bed Fargo Military Hospital. This hospital’s location was very close to many of the camps used by the Australians in England during the war. As a result many Australians would have been treated at Fargo for sickness and also accidents, many incurred in training.

His Majesty’s Hospital Ship Britannic was the third and final vessel of the White Star Line’s Olympic class of steamships and the second White Star ship to bear the name Britannic. She was the youngest sister of the RMS Olympic and the RMS Titanic and was intended to enter service as a transatlantic passenger liner.  On the morning of 21 November 1916 she hit a naval mine of the Imperial German Navy near the Greek island of Kea and sank 55 minutes later, killing 30 people. There were 1,066 people on board; the 1,036 survivors were rescued from the water and lifeboats. Britannic was the largest ship lost in the First World War.

Florence Eadie

Florence Eadie from Accrington. Image courtesy: Red Cross Archives.
Florence Eadie from Accrington. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.

Florence Eadie from Accrington worked as an unpaid volunteer ambulance driver at Le Treport in France, then in Macedonia, transporting casualties to hospitals and rest stations.

Le Treport, a French town located on the English Channel, was an important hospital centre. By July 1916, the town contained three general hospitals (the 3rd, 16th and 2nd Canadian), No.3 Convalescent Depot and Lady Murray’s British Royal Cross Stationary Hospital.

The Scottish Women’s Hospital in Macedonia- also called the Ostrovo Unit or the American Unit in gratitude to the American donors who funded it – was set up by the Scottish Suffragette movement near Lake Ostrovo on the Macedonian Front in August 1916. This pioneering women-only service not only featured female doctors and nurses, but female volunteers in non-medical roles like cooks, orderlies and ambulance drivers.

Sarah Ashworth

Sarah Ashworth from Stacksteads. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.
Sarah Ashworth from Stacksteads. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.

Sarah Ashworth from Stacksteads worked part-time as an unpaid volunteer at the New Hall Hey Military Hospital, Rawtenstall, Lancashire. Her duties involved sweeping, dusting, scubbing wards, taking temperatures, assisting with dressings, waiting at meals and waiting on bed patients. Awarded: One War Service Stripe.

New Hall Hey Military Hospital was located at New Hall Hey House in the centre of Rawtenstall. It opened in July 1915 with 18 beds. On 14th October 1916 a new ‘Kitchener Ward’ of 25 beds was added.

Local mills and businesses sponsored the beds: Green Bridge Mill, Myrtle Grove Mill, Sagarholme Mill, Whitwell Works, The Employees of Mitchell Bros (Waterfoot) Ltd, Lower Mill, Albion Mill, Hall Carr Mill, Spring and Isle of Man Mill (Water), Reedsholme Works and The Sir H W Trickett Ltd.

By the time it closed in 1919 capacity was 66 beds. Almost 700 patients were treated at the hospital. The site is now occupied by a roundabout and the Fire Station.

Lois Marsden

resarch for Blood Sweat and Tears  - Lois Marsden from Oswaldtwistle. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.
Lois Marsden from Oswaldtwistle. Image courtesy: Red Cross archives.

Lois Marsden from Oswaldtwistle was 31 years old when she volunteered for the Red Cross in April 1915. She was a Quaker and a nurse and joined the Friends Ambulance Unit (F.A.U.) caring for casualties at the 6th Auxillary Hospital, and the Queen Alexandra Hospital in Malo les Bains (mainly for Belgian casualties) & Petit Scynthe in Dunkirk until they could be evacuated on hospital ships. By the end of the war she was an Assistant Matron.  Awarded: 1915 Star, Royal Red Cross 2nd Class, Long Service French Riband with Silver Palm, Médaille Des Épidémies, Associates Royal Red Cross in 5-6-18.

In March 1918 the town of Dunkirk and ships in its harbour were targeted with air raids and shelling from both a naval bombardment and long range German guns – the events are described in an extract below from the diary of Molly Evans, a VAD nurse in the Queen Alexandra Hospital.

Air Raid began at about 8 pm as moon came up & we were preparing for bed. As shrapnel was bursting very near & ‘bits’ flying ‘through’ walls & roof, it compelled us to go to a ‘cellar’. Some heavy stuff dropped. Bitterly cold in cellar, everyone talking & reading papers & sketching ‘sketchy’ bits. 2 candles. Whenever anyone attempted to go up, ‘Zonc’ went the bombs & ‘Mournful Mary’ wailed in accompaniment to the blaring blast of the ‘Cow’ (sirens). This lasted till about midnight, when the low flying Hun took his humming infernal machines home to bed & we followed suite! only to be awakened again at 4 am by the most deafening explosions, screaming shells, brilliant flashes & terrific earth splitting noises & shattering ‘falls’ that shook us nearly out of bed. I sat up & said “Naval Bombardment, cellar no use”. Terrific & terrible shells upon shells shrieking over our heads.” 20-21 March 1918, diary of Molly Evans

On Saturday 23 Mar 1918 a decision was taken to evacuate the Queen Alexandra Hospital in Malo les Bains to the grounds of Château de Petite Synthe on the outskirts of Dunkirk.

Credit: Red Cross archives.

Voluntary Aid Detachments (VAD)

The Balkan Crisis of 1908 increased tensions in Europe and the following year the UK War Office asked the Red Cross and the Order of St John to form Voluntary Aid Detachments (VAD) in an effort to prevent the shortage of nurses in case of war.  Each detachment was a hospital or medical station, sometimes established by local funding, which operated under the umbrella of the Red Cross.

VAD volunteers were required to work under fully trained nurses and had to be between 23 and 38 years of age. They were taught first aid, home nursing and hygiene, as well as classes in cookery. They practised in hospital wards and in many cases trained in infirmaries. Some refused to take a salary, and many highly skilled volunteers willingly worked at a low rate of pay.  

By October 1910, over 2,500 detachments had been registered with over 6,000 volunteers. These numbers increased considerably after 1914 to over 74,000 volunteers, two-thirds of whom were women and girls. The majority of VADs worked on the home front.

Blood Sweat and Tears - detail
Blood Sweat and Tears – detail

Through the course of the war there was an ever increasing need for VAD assistance overseas. They were posted to Belgium, Egypt, Malta, Salonika (Greece), Russia, Gallipoli, Mesopotamia, Serbia, Romania and Italy.   Requests for VAD’s came from Military Hospitals, Royal Naval Hospitals, New Zealand hospitals, RAF hospitals, WRNS sick bays and QMAAC sick bays.

By 1916, around 8,000 trained nurses were employed in hospitals at home with around 126,000 beds. A further 4,000 nurses were working overseas with 93,000 beds.

By 1918 the number of VAD numbers overall had risen to about 80,000. 12,000 of these were nurses working in the military hospitals and 60,000 were unpaid volunteers working in auxiliary hospitals in a variety of roles such as ambulance drivers, cooks, cleaners and clerks.

Honours and awards

Throughout WW1 new awards were approved to acknowledge the service of VAD volunteers.

The Royal Red Cross (RRC) medal had been awarded since its creation in 1883. It was conferred on women within the nursing profession regardless of their rank. Most awards went to those who served in senior grades between ‘acting sister’ and ‘matron-in-chief’.   In 1915 a new award, the ‘Associates’ Royal Red Cross medal (ARRC) was introduced. 

VAD nurses were rewarded for their service with War Service bars or stripes to display on their uniform.

The Red Cross war medal was awarded to members of the Red Cross or its VADs who served in the UK between 4 August 1914 and 31 December 1919. The medal was introduced in 1920 and was awarded to some 41,000 members who had served in the United Kingdom.

In 1917 King George V approved the 1914 star, often referred to as the ‘Mons Star’, to all those officers and men of the British & Indian expeditionary forces. This included nurses who served in France or Belgium between 5 August 1914 and midnight on 22 November 1914.

In 1919 the King approved the issue of a clasp to those already awarded the 1914 star. It was awarded to those “who actually served under the fire of the enemy in France or Belgium” between 5 August and 22 November 1914. In total 365,622 1914 stars were awarded and 145,000 1914 star clasps. 

Blood Sweat and Tears - Lois Marsden, Oswaldtwistle – Matron, Friends Ambulance Unit, Dunkirk, France.  Awarded: 1915 Star, R.R.C 2nd Class, Long Service French Riband with Silver Palm, Médaille Des Épidémies, A.R.R.C 5.6.18.
Lois Marsden, Oswaldtwistle – Matron, Friends Ambulance Unit, Dunkirk, France.  Awarded: 1915 Star, R.R.C 2nd Class, Long Service French Riband with Silver Palm, Médaille Des Épidémies, A.R.R.C 5.6.18.

For further information on the movement of military casualties from the front line, please visit ‘The Long, Long Trail‘.

Update:

‘Blood Sweat & Tears’ is on its first stop touring Australia and will be on exhibition at the Sydney Craft & Quilt Fair, ICC Sydney Darling Harbour, Australia 
July 3 – 6, 2024.

Update:

‘Blood Sweat & Tears’ is on its second stop touring Australia and will be on exhibition at the Melbourne Craft & Quilt Fair, Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre, Melbourne, Australia, July 24 – 27, 2024.

Update:

‘Blood Sweat & Tears’ is on its third and final stop touring Australia and will be on exhibition at the Brisbane Craft & Quilt Fair, Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre, Brisbane, Australia, October 9 – 12, 2024.

Good Grub

I’m pleased to announce that Good Grub is part of the Embroiderers’ Guild 2024 Members Challenge ‘Opposites Attract’.

My first thought on hearing the challenge theme was ‘sweet and savoury’ and of course that meant hand embroidering a recipe or two.

Good Grub
Good Grub

Each design revolves around a memory growing up in Lancashire in the 1970’s. 

My childhood was full of tasty, sweet and savoury, home cooked grub. A good food day was having one of my favourites for lunch, Manchester Tart – a batch-cooked school pudding, filled with bananas and jam – followed by Mum’s Lancashire Hotpot for tea.

The work was hand embroidered with vintage Sylko threads in backstitch, couching and seed stitch. The edges are turned under and topstitched.

I’m delighted with the response I’ve receive so far from fellow stitchers.

The work has prompted others to share their own warm memories of Manchester Tart and Lancashire Hotpot.

Gawthorpe Textiles Collection

Gawthorpe Textiles Collection (GTC) is an internationally renowned collection of global textiles located in the heart of Pennine Lancashire, England.

Last week, I was honoured to be invited to a private tour of its new home at Northlight, Suite 26 Unit 2, Northlight House, Pendle Rd, Brierfield, Nelson BB9 5FF – a 15 minute drive from Gawthorpe Hall.  

This post shares a flavour of what the collection has to offer and how you can access the beautiful embroidery for yourself.

A visit to Gawthorpe Textile Collection
A visit to Gawthorpe Textile Collection

“Founded by the Honourable Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth (1886-1967) the collection was amassed to educate, inspire creativity, support wellbeing and to preserve traditional craft skills by sharing knowledge, skills and expertise across cultures.” Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.

Northlight

Up until recently, the collection had been stored within Gawthorpe Hall, in a damp storage area that was starting to impact the condition of some of the pieces. After funding was secured a decision was made to move the entire collection to a new home within Northlight.

Northlight is a perfect location to visit with plenty of parking and just a stones throw from Brierfield Railway station.
Northlight is a perfect location to visit with plenty of parking and just a stones throw from Brierfield Railway station.
 Northlight, a redeveloped cotton mill full of stunning historical features of its own.
Northlight, a redeveloped cotton mill full of stunning historical features of its own.

This new purpose built archive holds the collection of over 30,000 textile and craft items. Each item has been carefully wrapped in acid free tissue and then placed in a box, labelled and referenced with its contents.

I was completely blown away by the diversity of the Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.
I was completely blown away by the diversity of the Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.

Beryl Dean

Rachel Terry the Collections Officer gave me a guided tour of the boxes and explained some of the stories behind their contents.

Rachel Terry the Collections Officer gave me a guided tour of the Gawthorpe Textile Collection.
Rachel Terry the Collections Officer gave me a guided tour of the Gawthorpe Textile Collection.

I took a particular interest in a box labelled ‘Beryl Dean‘ and Rachel offered to get the box down for me. I naturally accepted and was in awe at it’s contents which included some tiny handstitched English Paper Piecing and an amazing artwork created in gold work and silk embroidery.

An amazing artwork by Beryl Dean created in gold work and silk embroidery.
An amazing artwork by Beryl Dean created in gold work and silk embroidery.

Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth

Other embroidery that interested me was work stitched by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth herself. Another box was chosen from the shelves and opened.

After carefully unrolling its contents – a long piece of beautifully hand stitched crewel work embroidery – Rachel explained the story behind the work.

Gawthorpe Textile Collection - A long piece of beautifully hand stitched crewel work embroidery by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth
A long piece of beautifully hand stitched crewel work embroidery by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth

Whilst we chatted, Rachel mentioned a selection of pieces that I might be interested in. Pieces that had connections to the Kay-Shuttleworths.

On the far side of a wall covered in framed art was a hand painted artwork with links to the early years of the Girl Guiding Movement. Other frames contained patchwork and hand embroidery including two hand embroidered world maps documenting the travels of a family member.

Gawthorpe Textile Collection - Artwork with a connection to the  Kay-Shuttleworths
Artwork with a connection to the Kay-Shuttleworths

My eye was drawn to three mysterious parcels wrapped in white fabric to protect them from dust and light. Each had decorated the tower walls at Gawthorpe Hall. I asked about them and Rachel offered to unwrap one for me. Inside was a very special piece by Rachel Kay-Shutleworth.

The work was mounted on a wooden frame and had the most beautiful, vibrant, red poppies hand embroidered in wool, in techniques that allowed the flowers and seed heads to sit proud of the foundation fabric.

Embroidery by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth that once decorated the tower at Gawthorpe Hall
Embroidery by Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth that once decorated the tower at Gawthorpe Hall

After seeing all this beautiful embroidery, my mind was buzzing and I needed a hot cup of tea and a sit down.

Before leaving the archive I had a chance to pop into a beautifully lit room adjoining the archive. The space is used for hosting talks and workshops, and also has a small shop where I had to purchase a new mug for my sewing room.

Viewing the Gawthorpe Textiles Collection – Talks and Tours

I can heartily recommend planning your own visit to the the collection. Enquiries for group tours and individual study visits are available via this link.

If you would like the collection come to you, GTC offers in person and Zoom talks, and on-demand talks. For more information visit https://www.gawthorpetextiles.org.uk

Gawthorpe Hall.
Image courtesy: National Trust
Gawthorpe Hall. Image courtesy: National Trust

Another way to see the beautiful collection is at a new exhibition opening in summer 2024 at Gawthorpe Hall.

Gawthorpe Hall, Burnley Road, Padiham, BB12 8UA;  (for Sat Nav use BB12 8SD).

Other ways to view the collection

The collection is gradually being digitally photographed and documented. A large selection is available to view here on Tumblr.

GTC has designed a number of Loan Boxes to support creative learning in schools and adult learning classes. The boxes are full of inspiring textiles covering Patchwork, Plain Work Samplers plus boxes dedicated to Contemporary Stitch and Lace. Please enquire about availability.

Thank you for joining me on this tour of the fabulous Gawthorpe Textiles Collection.

I hope you are inspired and plan to make a trip of your own in the future.